Northern Atolls escorted by Martin Edge, written by Tony Backhurst
What would it be like to join the world of the underwater photographers? Would I ever get to grips with F stops and apertures, white balance and exposure compensation? I was soon to find out! Having attended the Martin Edge one day course and having got at least 1/2 way through his book I was as genned-up as much as could be expected for a newby photographer. So now I was joining one of his famous photo workshops aboard Monsoon in the Northern atolls of the Maldives.
It’s always a pleasure to fly with Emirates and as usually check in and flight was smooth and comfortable. I had pre booked the extra baggage so no problems there even with all the extra camera gear. During the short stop in Dubai the group managed to meet up and everybody was introduced. I was surprised to find the lady photographers outnumbered the men.
Our arrival in Male was much smoother then on previous trips, Chris the guide from Monsoon was waiting at arrivals and guided us through the short journey to the sea plane terminal. Kuredu have there own air conditioned lounge now so waiting our the sea plane was much more comfortable than previously. The flight up to Kuredu is always memorable, seeing the islands, and reefs from the air is breathtaking, and flying in the little Otter sea planes is an experience in itself.
Monsoon is moored right on the jetty at Kuredu where the sea plane lands so straight on to the boat. Lunch on the Island, check dive on the house reef and we were off first thing the next day.
I was soon to find how different a photo trip was from a regular liveaboard trip. There was no underwater ‘tour” of a dive site and then move on to the next. First we went in the water and as briefed by Martin we looked for suitable subjects in locations that were accessible to be photographed and tried out a few ideas. Should the site prove promising we went back in at the same site two or three times, after each dive looking at our results and with input from Martin making adjustments of exposures, strobe settings and shooting angles, as well as maybe switching from wide angle to macro. It was totally amazing how quickly the 60 minutes maximum dive time flew by when you are engrossed in finding subjects and trying to capture them to best affect.
Another major difference from the “normal” trip was the amount of time taken up with photography. All the time in fact! Between waking a 7 am and going to bed at 11 or 12.
There was hardly any time for the usual between dives pastimes of reading, sunbathing snoozing and a few drinks in the evening. Instead it was drying housings, changing batteries, down loading images onto lap tops, then changing lenses, greasing o rings and re assembling housings. Chris our guide looked on incredulous at the mountain of camera equipment assembles on one of Monsoons large dining tables. In the evenings everyone was busy reviewing images deleting and editing. Martin took time to look at everyone’s images and advise on ways to improve and edit. We also looked at each others efforts. Being a beginner I was able to learn from all of my more experience companions. Several evenings Martin gave a presentation , and Sylvia gave advice and encouragement. Sylvia was also available as an excellent underwater model during dives.
Whilst all other Maldives liveaboards are based in Male, Monsoon is based in Kuredu, in Llaviyani atoll, a 40 minute flight or 5 hours by boat to the North. It then cruises North and West incorporating Noonu, Shaviani and Baa Atolls as well as Llavianyi.
And what and great variety of photogenic subjects the trip turned up! Locally the caves behind Kuredu are home to numerous green and hawsksbill turtles. These turtles are totally oblivious to divers despite the clicking and flashing of cameras, and probably present the best turtle photo opportunities next to Sipidan, as they cruise up to the surface for breath and then return to their cave. The famous Kuredu Express channel dive provided the photogenic honeycomb morays in abundance, and the another local dive yielded a carpet of blue anemones, which gave stunning images. On so on the largely unexplored Noonu and Shivanyi Atolls. Christmas Tree Thila was a favourite site for Martin, with schooling fish and numerous macro opportunities. My favourite was Orimas Thila,, home to a huge family group of grey sharks. At one point we were totally surrounded by at least thirty in all sizes from large mature females to small babies. Here you could observe them being cleaned, standing on their tails mouth open.. I also had a close encounter with an eagle ray. The ledges and overhangs were home to schooling fish, sting rays and even a sleeping grey shark (didn’t know they did that?). Chris also took us to several other sites he has found, including a stunning wall dive with gorgonian fans and caves with whip corals. The only thing on the photo wish list that we had not found was Manta, and after the last dive with only a few fleeting glimpses it was looking as we were going to be disappointed. On the last morning we were moored up on the jetty having breakfast when suddenly three sizable mantas were cruising right off the back of the boat. Everybody got back in and some great shots were produced.
The photo course wound up with a competition, everybody submitted 3 images and the guests and crew alike voted. A stunning image of a turtle took first place followed by two excellent macro shots of gobies on whip corals. I although I was hopeful it was no real surprise that my eagle ray and shark images didn’t win any prizes. Try again next time.
Whether your interest is photography or just diving this is an excellent trip. It’s always great to dive virgin areas away from other divers, and the food and service aboard Monsoon is really second to none. The company was also great, the photographers all gelled into an jovial friendly group and it was sad to say goodbye at the end of the trip. I had a thoroughly enjoyable time and with all the new knowledge and experience gained from Martin and the other guests I fear I am hooked and look like becoming another photo nurd!
